Paris Picks: Coffee Shops

In the last few years, a new coffee culture has made its way to Paris. Once upon a time you could only order a mediocre café noisette (espresso with hot milk) at a bistro counter, or for a little extra, sit on a terrace nursing a scalding café crème (the French version of a latte). Thankfully for us coffee connoisseurs, things have changed and a good coffee is not so hard to find, due to expat baristas brewing top roasts. But you must know where to look. Here is a list of my favorite coffee shops all over Paris, some of which are conveniently located in my North Marais neighborhood. (Café date, anyone?) In addition to stellar coffee, most offer free WiFi.

Télescope: 5 Rue Villedo, 75001 / Monday-Friday 8:30-5 / Saturday 9:30-6:30 / Sunday Closed

Café Kitsuné:  51 Galerie Montpensier, 75001 / Monday-Friday 10-6 / Saturday-Sunday 10-6:30

Café Loustic: 40 Rue Chapon, 75003 / Monday-Friday 8:30-6 / Saturday-Sunday 10-6

Fragments: 76 Rue des Tournelles, 75003 / Monday-Friday 8-6 / Saturday-Sunday 10-6

Fondation Café: 16 Rue Dupetit-Thouars, 75003 / Monday-Friday 8-6 / Saturday-Sunday 9-6

The Broken Arm: 12 Rue Perrée, 75003 / Tuesday-Saturday 9-6 / Sunday-Monday Closed

Boot Café: 19 Rue du Pont aux Choux, 75003 / Monday-Sunday 10-6

La Caféothèque: 52 Rue de l’Hôtel de ville, 75004 / Monday-Friday 8:30-7:30 / Saturday-Sunday 10-7:30

Coutume Café: 47 Rue de Babylone, 75007 / Monday-Friday 8:30-5:30 / Saturday-Sunday 9-6

Honor Cafe: 54 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 / Monday-Friday 9-6 / Saturday 10-6 / Sunday Closed

KB Café Shop: 53 Avenue Trudaine, 75009 / Monday-Friday 7:45-6:30 / Saturday-Sunday 9-6:30

Blackburn Coffee: 52 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin, 75010 / Monday-Friday 9-6 / Saturday-Sunday 10-7

Peonies Café: 81 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, 75010 / Tuesday-Saturday 9-8 / Sunday 10-4 / Monday Closed

Ten Belles: 10 Rue de la Grange aux Belles, 75010 / Monday-Friday 8-5 / Saturday-Sunday 9-6

Folks and Sparrows: 14 Rue Saint-Sébastien, 75011 / Tuesday-Saturday 10-6 / Sunday-Monday Closed

Café Oberkampf: 3 Rue Neuve Popincourt, 75011 / Monday, Thursday-Friday 8:30-4:30 / Saturday-Sunday 9:30-4:30 / Tuesday-Wednesday Closed

Passager: 107 Avenue Ledru-Rollin, 75011 / Tuesday-Saturday 8:30-6:30 / Sunday-Monday Closed

Hardware Société: 10 Rue Lamarck, 75018 / Monday, Wednesday-Friday 9-4 / Saturday-Sunday 9:30-4:30 / Tuesday Closed

Lomi: 3 ter Rue Marcadet, 75018 / Monday-Sunday 10-7

CREAM: 50 Rue de Belleville, 75020 / Monday-Friday 8:30-5:30 / Saturday-Sunday 9:30-5:30

Gluten-Free Paris

In the last few years, Paris has gone on a health kick, adding dozens of natural grocery stores and bio cafes to its wellness roster. It’s easier than ever to find a freshly pressed juice or vegan burger. But what about those restricted to a gluten-free diet? This is where one of my friends & fellow expats comes in. I first met Chiara before moving to Paris, when we were both working in advertising. Last year our paths reconnected, and since then this soulful Italian has taught me much about the art of gluten-free eating. Chiara is the expert, after all.

To help others with similar dietary restrictions discover the ever expanding gluten-free side of Paris, Chiara started a blog, Baci di Dama Living Gluten Free. Here she writes about the best sans gluten restaurants, bakeries and cafes in the City of Lights, anything and everything gluten-free. Her photos alone will make you salivate. She even sells pasta and other gluten-free products on her site, and is perfecting her very own bread. (Italians do love their bread!) You can also find an array of recipes on her website, and prepare your own gluten-free feast. There’s no reason not to indulge in the French (or Italian) way of life! Chiara even shares the stories of those behind the gluten-free worlds of Paris, Rome, London, Berlin, Madrid, Brussels and beyond.

Did I mention that she offers custom Gluten-Free Tours? She also collaborates with Airbnb and has designed the above bag in one of my workshops. (Photos by Nicole Flack.) On a recent morning, I asked Chiara to take me along on her food tour, curious to know if these desserts she raves about really do compare with traditional gluten-filled patisseries.  We started the day at an eatery I didn’t know but quickly grew to love, Lula in the 10th. I’ve never tasted something as delicous (and healthy) as their acai bowl. (I’ve since been back several times for their fresh juices and salads.) From there we stopped by an Italian epicerie to look into their gluten-free selection, and then it was time for lunch. And dessert.

Chiara chose the newly opened Sitron in the fashionable 2nd. Not only is this a charming lunch spot where we feasted on delicious wraps, but the skilled pâtissier creates some of the most exquisite cakes I’ve ever seen, and tasted. I opted for the caramel concoction and loved every gluten-free bite! With or without gluten, life in Paris is certainly a sweet one. Where to next, Chiara? Follow her adventures via Instagram and Facebook.

co-working cafés

I know many of my readers, like myself, are entrepreneurs, or perhaps dream to be. To assist you in your journey while in Paris, I share my favorite co-working cafés in the city of lights. You can find this article online at Bonjour Paris, and read other features that I wrote about Paris, here. See you at a co-working café…

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With a growing number of Parisiens and expatriates leaning towards the entrepreneurial life, it’s no wonder co-working spaces are on the rise in Paris. The first opened its doors in the Sentier in 2008 and has evolved into what is now Numa, a start-up acceleration co-working space. Le Loft, a former rope factory boasting 620m² of space, is a co-working incubator also located in what was once called Silicon Sentier. In recent years, over a dozen have followed suit, catered to a community of business-minded creatives who seek a space to work other than their often cramped quarters. As one such entrepreneur, I well understand the importance of an environment where productivity trumps distraction. An alternative to corner cafés, in the past favored by greats like Hemingway, these relaxed professional spaces provide the ideal environment for solo work or a business meeting, some even offering private conference rooms. Where better to create your office and connect with like-minds, than in a comfortable café offering unlimited wifi and café crèmes?

Nuage Cafe 1 (Photo-Romain Reglade Design-Cardinale & Rogeon Architects)

Here are a few of my favorites, where you can often find me designing or writing, thriving in the energy of fellow creatives. Did I mention they all excel in coffee?

Nuage Café

The latest to open in the Latin Quarter is Nuage Café, in recent years a church and once the high school of Cyrano de Bergerac. You might even find his desk in the eclectic workspace. Nuage, meaning cloud, is true to its name, a tranquil lofty duplex featuring various shared and private work environments. Books are strewn throughout the space, hidden even in the stairwell. In-house services include ordering a coffee via your laptop. By registering your seat online, a professional network is created among those sharing the space. A discreet way of connecting. Soon lunch will be offered so you never need to leave your cloud.

Photos: Romain Reglade / Design: Cardinale Rogeon Architects

14, rue des Carmes 75005
Monday-Friday 9am – 9pm / Saturday-Sunday 12 – 8pm
4€/hour, 16€/day
coffee by Coutume


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Steps away from Canal Saint-Martin sits Craft, a minimally designed and highly efficient space that has welcomed international clientele for over three years. The unique concept behind this co-working café is the even exchange of food and drink for work time. The 3€ per hour fee can be used for an assortment of local tastes including pastries, sandwiches, coffee and fresh juices, providing the ideal spot for a working lunch. With soft music and the sounds and smells of coffee grinding in the background, it’s easy to feel at home in this intimate space.

24 rue des Vinaigriers 75010
Monday-Saturday 9am – 7pm / Sunday 10am – 7pm
3€/hour
coffee by Lomi


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The creative energy of Anticafé is immediately felt upon stepping into this animated space; upbeat music streams through the air, ever-changing artwork fills the walls, board games line the shelves. The lower level reveals a cozy cave in which to hide away or conduct a meeting. Lunch is not offered but there’s plenty in the way of snacks and beverages, including freshly squeezed juices. The first to open in 2013 sits in the shadows of Centre Pompidou, and already two more locations have opened in Paris and one in Rome. Where next?

79 rue Quincampoix 75003
10 rue Richelieu 75001
59 rue Nationale Paris 75013
Monday-Friday 9am – 10:30pm / Saturday-Sunday 10am – 9:30pm
4€/hour
coffee by Caron


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Five months ago Hubsy joined the café co-working culture. Located across the street from Musée des Arts et Métiers in Paris’ 3rd arrondissement, it’s the perfect spot to work solo while enjoying street scenes and museum views. The lower level provides a private meeting room which can be booked in advance, or you can opt to lounge more casually in the upstairs balcony. Snacks are plentiful and the owners take great pride in their coffee, Pfaff having been awarded best French coffee roaster in 2014 by the French Coffee Committee.

41 Rue Réaumur, 75003
Monday-Thursday 9am – 10pm / Friday 9am – 8pm / Saturday-Sunday 11am – 8pm
5€/first hour, 4€/each additional hour, 20€/day
coffee by Pfaff

folks and sparrows

In the last few years, the coffee scene in Paris has really changed, or might I say improved. No longer a need to rely on muddy watered down coffee at corner bistros for that caffeine fix. Trendy little cafes and eateries are opening up all around Paris, serving up some of the best café cremes around. The latest such spot to hit the North Marais is Folks and Sparrows. I was curious to experience this newcomer, along with Mardi, friend and fellow coffee drinker.

FOLKS-BOUTIQUE2I arrived a little early and took interest in the design and details of the space. A carefully curated gourmet épicerie and lunch spot. Curious, I began speaking with the owner, a Brad Pitt look-alike. It turns out Franck lived in Brooklyn for 10 years, well versed in NY’s food culture as a manager at a trendy restaurant. Now it was time to open his own spot, lucky for us, back on his home turf.

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We spoke about New York and Paris (of course), and how the café and restaurant culture in Paris has evolved over the years, due to the French traveling more and returning home with their creative visions. Inspired by the American dream, perhaps? Yes, anything is possible.

Folks2And how was the coffee? Both Mardi and I agreed that it was delicious! Some of the best I’ve had in Paris. And in such a cozy yet uniquely chic space. Well done, Franck! I’ll soon be back for lunch.

Folks and Sparrows: 14 rue Saint Sebastien (open 10-7 daily, closed Mondays)

cat café

As much as I would love to adopt a cat, considering how much we travel, I would feel sad leaving the furry feline on it’s own for extended periods. When I discovered a cat café just opened in my Marais neighborhood, I was elated, and needless to say, curious. Are French cats as friendly as those in America? And how exactly does this concept work?

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The first cat café, where you can drink or dine surrounded by friendly felines, started in Taiwan in 1998, and soon after gained popularity in Japan, where there are now over 150. Vienna, Budapest and London have also followed suit. Le Café des Chats is the first such café to open in Paris, and so far it’s creating quite a buzz amidst cat fans. So busy that reservations need to be made, even for tea.

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At the window sits the oldest of the 12 cats, all rescued and chosen for their mellow personalities.

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The cats lay sleeping in the cat beds or upon the lounge chairs, kept company by client filled tables.

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I thought it might be strange to drink or eat in a room filled with cats, but these felines create a natural environment. It feels much like visiting the next door neighbor, the crazy cat lady. I found myself distracted, as all I wanted to do was find the cats and play with them. Let sleeping cats lie?

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I was happy to learn is that all the cats are very well cared for in their new café home. I suspect this will become a regular spot for me and fellow feline loving friends. And they serve brunch!

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Le Café des Chats is located at 16 rue Michel Le Comte, Paris 3eme, open daily from 12-10pm.

stylish eats

One of the reasons I love living in the North Marais, what I call NoMa, is that it’s constantly evolving. Reminiscent of my life in NY’s Lower East Side, new cafes and bars are appearing almost overnight, mixed in with the various ethnic eats. One such neighborhood locale, discreetly hidden in the 3eme, which has quickly become my favorite, is Loustic, “smart ass” as the Breton’s would say.

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What first caught my eye is the decor, given my affinity towards geometric prints and color. With walls covered in Hermès wallpaper, custom tables and cushioned seating, a stylish addition to the neighborhood. Another of the creative endeavors of interior designer Dorothée Meilichzon.

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It is not simply the interior decor that keeps me returning to this local haven. Nor is it the humour and wit of owner Channa Galhenage, though certainly that helps. The food offerings are both sweet and savory, selectively catered by Emperor Norton, and almost daily Kristen of The Kale Project is in house preparing her kale delicacies. And the coffee, without question one of the best in Paris.

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Stop in and have a bite to eat. But do tell them you are from the neighborhood.

40, rue Chapon 75003